The Indian Wolf

The Indian wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) is a subspecies of the grey wolf that ranges from Southwest Asia to the Indian Subcontinent. They are found in grasslands, scrubland and open forests and once roamed across the arid and semi-arid regions of the entire Indian peninsula. For the last two centuries wolves have been vilified and persecuted as vermin. Now under serious threat of extinction, the future of the Indian wolf is uncertain.

Indian Wolf chasing blackbuck. Velavadar National Park, Gujarat.

Indian wolf chasing a blackbuck

Rapid deforestation and an ever expanding human population have shrunk the hunting grounds of the Indian wolf, reducing wild prey. As a result, the wolves are forced to prey on livestock, bringing them into direct conflict with humans. Currently less than 3000 Indian grey wolves survive in India, mainly in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharashtra, and Karnataka. 

One place well known for wolves in India is Velavadar National Park in Gujarat. Here they truly are kings of the grassland. With no larger predators around such as tigers or leopards, they are the apex predator here and as such tend to be bolder than Indian wolves elsewhere. In these grassland habitats their only direct competition is from packs of feral dogs and striped hyenas that scavenge their kills.

Striped Hyena with scavenged blackbuck caracass. Velavadar National Park, Gujarat.

Striped Hyena with scavenged blackbuck carcass.

However even in Velavadar spotting wolves is no mean feat. These unseen predator, or ‘ghosts of the grassland’ are seemingly able to appear and disappear like magic. Tracking them effectively takes many years of training and expertise. You could be just a few metres away from a wolf sitting in the grassland but have absolutely no idea. 

Indian wolves lack the dense coat of their European and North American cousins, due to living in much warmer conditions. During the blazing Indian summer heat these wolves have especially short thin fur, except for on their backs which remains long, thought to be an adaptation against solar radiation.

Indian Wolf chasing down young Blackbuck antelope. Velavadar National Park, India.

Indian wolf chasing down young blackbuck antelope. Velavadar National Park, India.

Indian grey wolves are highly social animals living in packs of 6-10 individuals with complex social hierarchies. Typically only the alpha pair will mate and birth a litter of pups, however all members of the pack help in raising the litter and the pups will start moving with the pack after they are around 8 months old. 

These grassland specialists are the primary predators of the graceful blackbuck. Over the millennia blackbucks have evolved amazing speed and agility to cope with the now locally extinct Asiatic cheetah. Now these lanky Indian wolves have to outmanoeuvre and take down these agile antelopes.

Male Blackbuck Antelope. Velavadar National Park, Gujarat.

Male blackbuck antelope

Indian wolves are highly territorial and primarily hunt during the night but can also be seen hunting during the day. Each member of the pack will regularly hunt for their own food, however when taking down larger prey such as blackbuck, they hunt in pairs or small groups. They are intelligent hunters and employ complex hunting methods such as one wolf acting as a decoy whilst another attacks from behind.

Indian wolf carrying a young blackbuck. Velavadar National Park, Gujarat.

Indian wolf carrying a young blackbuck

Indian wolves are carnivores that prey upon a wide variety of animal species. Their varied diet helps to keep animal populations in check, thus benefiting different animal and plant species in their range. A particularly interesting study was done on the effects of this where wolves changed the course of rivers.

Wolf pups are born blind and their eyes open around 9-12 days after birth. When pups are around 3 months old they are ready to venture away from the den for the first time. 

Indian Wolf pup curiously watching a passing crow. Velavadar National Park, Gujarat.

Indian wolf pup curiously watching a passing crow.

The primary threats to Indian wolves include habitat loss, unregulated hunting and reduced prey. They are frequently killed due to being considered as livestock predators. They have also been known to prey on humans, particularly young children, bringing further conflict and persecution.

With an already staggering reduction in numbers, if something is not done soon we could see these enigmatic animals disappear altogether.

Keoladeo National Park (Bharatpur NP)

About Keoladeo National Park:

Keoladeo Ghana National Park otherwise known as Bharatpur National Park or Bharatpur bird sanctuary, is an internationally famous national park situated in Rajasthan, India. The park is easily accessible from India’s main tourism centres; Agra, Jaipur and Delhi, which together form the ‘golden triangle’. Spread over an area of 29 sq km, this important wetland was once the favoured hunting ground of the royals but was declared as a protected sanctuary in 1971. Now a world heritage site, Keoladeo Ghana National Park attracts prominent ornithologists from all over the world and is visited by thousands of tourists and wildlife enthusiasts every day. 

The name, Keoladeo Ghana National Park, is derived from the ancient temple dedicated to Keoladeo located at the centre of the park. ‘Ghana’ means dense and refers to the thick forest, which would have once covered the area. The park now comprises of a range of habitats including, wetlands, marshland, mud flats, woodlands and grasslands.

Wildlife of Bharatpur National Park:

Keoladeo National Park is truly a birder’s paradise. Species that are incredibly hard to see elsewhere visit here in the thousands. Wildlife photographers are spoilt for choice with atmospheric misty mornings, stunning sunrises and sunsets and activity around every bend. Apart from the 300+ resident species of bird, Keoladeo’s location is ideal for migratory birds as it lies directly on important migratory routes. This wetland is a literal oasis in one of Indias driest states; Rajasthan.

The sanctuary attracts birds from India, Tibet, Siberia, Europe and China. Cranes, storks, herons, pelicans, ducks, geese, raptors, waders, warblers, flycatchers, larks and pipits, can all be seen with ease in this relatively small national park.

Striking Purple Heron. Purple heron striking at a fish in wetland habitat. Bharatpur, Rajasthan, India. 

Striking Purple Heron.

Indian Cormorant at sunset. Bharatpur, Rajasthan, india. 

Indian Cormorant at sunset.

Purple Swamphen perched on a fallen tree stump in late evening light. Bharatpur, Rajasthan, India. The Indian species of Purple swamphens are known as Grey-headed swamphens.

Purple Swamphen

Hovering Pied Kingfisher against a bright blue sky. Rajasthan, india. India is home to many interesting varieties of kingfisher, such as the Pied Kingfisher, Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher, Black-Capped Kingfisher, Common Kingfisher, Collared Kingfisher, Stork-Billed Kingfisher and White-breasted Kingfisher.

Hovering Pied Kingfisher against a bright blue sky.

Adult Painted Stork in nesting tree. Bharatpur Bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) Rajasthan, India.These tall wading birds are impressive in flight and can often be seen gliding high on the thermals.

Adult Painted Stork in nesting tree.

Male Kingfisher on a weathered branch overlooking the wetland. Bharatpur Bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) Rajasthan, India.

Male Kingfisher on a weathered branch overlooking the wetland.

Oriental Darter Portrait. Indian Darter perched on favourite fishing perch overlooking a lake. Bharatpur Bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) Rajasthan, India.

Oriental Darter Portrait.

Great Cormorant with a large catfish, Bharatpur Bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) Rajasthan, India. We watched the cormorant struggle with this catfish for a good 10 minutes whilst being hassled by some opportunistic scavengers. Eventually the wriggling fish was under control and it was down the hatch in one.

Great Cormorant with a large catfish.

Indian Cormorant silhouetted against the setting sun. Bharatpur Bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) Rajasthan, India.

Indian Cormorant silhouetted against the setting sun.

 

Whilst the birds are the stars of the show, other regularly seen species include; Flying foxes, striped hyenas, golden jackals, sambhar deer, spotted deer, nilgai antelopes and pythons.

Spotted deer stag reflected in the wetlands of Bharatpur Bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) Rajasthan, India.

Spotted deer stag reflected in the wetlands of Bharatpur Bird sanctuary

Indian Flying Fox (Pteropus medius) roosting during the day time in a large communal roost. Bharatpur Bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) Rajasthan, India.

Indian Flying Fox (Pteropus medius) roosting during the day time in a large communal roost.

Indian Flying Fox (Pteropus medius) drinking water from a lake next to the communal roost. Bharatpur Bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) Rajasthan, India.

Indian Flying Fox (Pteropus medius) drinking water.

 

Tal Chhapar Wildlife Sanctuary

Tal Chhapar Wildlife Sanctuary

Tal Chhapar Wildlife Sanctuary is located in Northwestern Rajasthan on the fringe of the Great Indian Desert; The Thar. This small grassland habitat is surrounded by sparse scrub and dry dusty plains. Originally a hunting ground for the Maharaja of Bikaner, it was declared a sanctuary in the 1960s.

Due to the salinity of the soil at Chhapar, one of the regions primary exports is salt. The underground water in the area is so salty that it is simply brought up to the surface with help of bore wells, spread in salt pans and left to evaporate in the relentless blazing sun. Afterwards the salt crystals are collected and sent off for refinement. 

Thanks to its strategic position on a key migratory route, Tal Chhapar is one of the best places to see an amazing variety of raptors such as harriers, falcons, eagles and vultures. Birds begin to appear in September with many staying through until March, sustained by two key prey species; the desert jird and the spiny-tailed lizard.

Laggar falcon eating a spiny tailed lizard.

Adult Spiny tailed lizard basking outside burrow. Rajsthan.

Adult spiny tailed lizard basking outside burrow.

Indian Desert Jird feeding on vegetation outside its burrow. Rajasthan, India. Along with the spiny tailed lizard, The jird is the staple prey for the many raptors that inhabit the desert regions of India.

The desert jird (Meriones hurrianae) otherwise known as the Indian desert gerbil, found in the desert regions of Rajasthan and Gujarat.

This stunning grassland wasn’t always the paradise it is today. After decades of neglect and encroachment by the nearby salt production, the sanctuary was in a sorry state.

In recent years the grassland has been gradually transformed, thanks to the efforts coordinated by Mr. S.S. Poonia, the range forest officer at Tal Chhapar. The first step was to strip away an invasive plant; Prosopis juliflora, that was choking the habitat. Next, a variety of grasses were planted such as Mothiya grass, a favourite of the blackbucks, which derives its name from ‘moti’ meaning pearl, as its sweet seeds look like pearls.

The final result is vast swathes of pristine grassland bustling with animal life. 

Male blackbuck antelope.

Leaping young blackbuck antelope in the grasslands of Tal Chhapar.

Leaping young blackbuck antelope 

India’s grasslands are home to some of its most endangered species, many of which are endemic. This important habitat now only exists in a handful of places in India and is sadly becoming increasingly scarce. One of the last true grassland ecosystems in India, Tal Chhapar is a haven for the iconic blackbuck antelope and a myriad of birdlife. 

The huge variety of interesting and unique subjects combined with smooth eye-pleasing backgrounds, make Tal Chappar a wildlife photographers paradise.

Mammals of Tal Chhapar:

The sanctuary is home to a wide range of mammals including blackbucks, chinkara, nilgai, desert and Bengal fox, wild boar, desert jird, black naped hare, desert cat and jungle cat. 

Blue Bull (Nilgai Antelope) in front of the setting sun.

Blue Bull (nilgai antelope) in front of the setting sun.

Chinkara Habitat. Indian Gazelle in desert scrub habitat stomping hooves. Tal Chhappar, Rajasthan, India.

Indian gazelle (chinkara) in desert scrub habitat.

Indian Desert Fox at sunset, photographed in desert scrub habitat. Chhappar, Rajasthan, India.

Indian desert fox at sunset.

Indian Boar sprinting across a dusty track in the grasslands of Tal Chhapar Sanctuary, Rajasthan, India. India's Grasslands are home to some of its most endangered species, many of which are endemic. This important habitat now only exists in a handful of places in India and is sadly becoming increasingly scarce.

Indian wild boar sprinting across a dusty track.

Rutting Blackbucks. Two Male blackbucks engaged in a fierce territorial battle. Tal Chhapar Sanctuary, Rajasthan, India. India's Grasslands are home to some of its most endangered species, many of which are endemic. This important habitat now only exists in a handful of places in India and is sadly becoming increasingly scarce.

Two male blackbucks engaged in a fierce territorial battle.

Reptiles of Tal Chhapar:

Often overlooked in favour of the more easily seen mammals and birdlife Tal Chhapar is also home to 13 species of reptile. Species recorded here include the Indian saw-scaled viper, Jerdon’s snake-eye, King cobra, Indian fringe-fingered lizard, leaf-toed gecko, monitor lizard, spiny tailed lizard and more.

Wide angle view of a big bengal monitor lizard in grassland habitat. Tal Chappar, Rajasthan, India.

Bengal monitor lizard in grassland habitat. 

Indian spiny-tailed lizard close up. Chhapar, Rajasthan, India.

Indian spiny-tailed lizard

Spiny-tailed lizard

Spiny-tailed lizard.

Birdlife

With the abundance of prey species the sanctuary is home to an incredible range of birdlife. During the Winter months Tal Chhapar is one of the worlds best locations to see and photograph mighty raptors. Birds of prey seen here include the imperial eagle, steppe eagle, laggar falcon, common and lesser kestrels, tawny eagle, Montagu’s and pallid harriers, red necked falcon, cinereous vulture, Eurasian and Himalayan griffon, the Egyptian vulture and much much more!

Laggar Falcon

Laggar falcon

Black Kite coming in to land on a weathered post in the grasslands of Tal Chhappar, Rajasthan, India.

Black kite

Indian Courser

Indian courser

 

Brown Snake Eagle 

 

Portrait of Common Kestrel in warm early morning light in the grasslands of Tal Chhapar, Rajasthan, India.

Common kestrel

Juvenile Montagu's harrier perched on a weathered post in the grasslands of Tal Chhapar, Rajasthan, India.

Juvenile Montagu’s harrier

Steppe Eagle in warm evening light Rajasthan, India. Bird of Prey populations have decreased dramatically in recent years and many are now endangered. This decline in numbers is largely due to poisoning when they unknowingly feed on carcasses that are full of harmful chemicals and lead.Steppe eagle

 

Juvenile White-eyed Buzzard in flight 

 

Cinerous Vulture

Cinerous vulture

Tawny Eagle

Tawny eagle

Egyptian Vulture

Egyptian vulture

 
Indian Roller Take Off. An Indian roller takes flight in the grasslands of Tal Chhapar, Rajasthan, India.

Indian Roller

Spotted owlet, peering up from its nest cavity in an old disused well. Rajasthan, India.

Spotted owlet peering up from its nest cavity in an old disused well.

Ground level portrait of a Long-legged Buzzard

Ground level portrait of a Long-legged Buzzard

Backlit Pallid Harrier Portrait.

Great grey shrike perched on a thorny bush in the grasslands of Tal Chhapar, Rajasthan, India.

Great grey shrike perched on a thorny bush

A Grey Francolin poses in golden morning light. Tal Chhapar Sanctuary, Rajasthan, India.

A Grey Francolin poses in golden morning light

Silhouette of a Black drongo perched on a weathered post in front of the setting sun. Tal Chhapar, Rajasthan, India.

Silhouette of a Black drongo at sunset.

The Big Move

After keeping things very quiet until I had a confirmed leave date, I’m finally able to share some very exciting news; at the end of July I’ll be moving to India! Although I’ll be based in New Delhi, I’ll be exploring the whole country and travelling around other parts of Asia to work on some major photographic projects.

Alongside the usual favourites (tigers, elephants, monkeys etc) I’m really looking forward to documenting the incredible range of birdlife and less well known species that you simply couldn’t see in a short trip.

I’ve spent my whole life living around the Peak District and it feels very strange to be leaving my home behind for a while. However I’m really excited for the chance to develop my international portfolio and experience some more of the big wide world!

For anyone who hasn’t had the chance to book a date for their gift voucher yet, I’m extending already purchased vouchers indefinitely. This means they can be used on my return or for any of the prints and gifts in the shop whilst I’m away.

Expect lots of exciting photography very soon!