About the Little Rann of Kutch:

The Little Rann of Kutch Wildlife Sanctuary, commonly known as LRK, is a unique habitat comprising of saline desert plains, thorny scrubland, arid grasslands, wetlands and marshes. In the dry winter season it becomes a huge desolate desert and during the monsoon the arid desert plains become one of Indias largest wetlands.

Wildlife of LRK:

LRK is one of India’s largest reserves, covering almost 5000 square kilometres. It is famous for being the largest breeding ground for lesser flamingoes in India and the the last refuge for the endangered Asiatic wild ass.

LRK is also home to a wide range of mammals including chinkara, blackbuck, nilgai, Indian wolf, golden jackals, striped hyena, desert and Bengal foxes, jungle cats and more.

 

Birds found here include a wide variety of raptors such as peregrines and hobbies, steppe, imperial, and short-toed eagles, montagu and pallid harriers, bustards, flamingos, pelicans, storks, cranes, sand grouse, coursers, plovers, shrikes.

The best time for birding on the Rann is in the winter which runs between October to March. 

Little Rann Specialities:

Indian Wild Ass

The Indian wild ass (Equus hemionus khur) is a handsome chestnut-brown and white member of the equus genus, native to Asia. They are also known as the Indian onager, Ghudkhur, or simply ‘Khur’ in the local Gujarati language. Khur are found in Saline deserts (rann), arid grasslands and shrubland.

The Indian wild asses range once extended throughout Western India, Southern Pakistan, Afghanistan, and South-eastern Iran. Today, its last refuge is the Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary, Little Rann of Kutch, Gujarat, India. 

The first wild ass census was completed in 1940, when there were an estimated 3,500 individuals. However, from 1958-1960 the wild ass became a victim of a disease known as surra, which caused a dramatic population decline and the figure fell to just 362.

At this point it was classified as critically endangered and a major conservation effort began to save the Indian Wild Ass from extinction. In the years that followed, the Little Rann of Kutch and adjoining districts were designated as a Wild Ass Sanctuary that covers an area of 4954 km².  The number of artificial water holes were increased in the area, and a project began to increase the available food.

The current census of 2015 puts the Indian wild ass population at more than 4,800 individuals and it is now listed as Near Threatened by IUCN.

Lesser Flamingo

The Little Rann of Kutch (LRK) is one of the largest breeding grounds for Lesser Flamingos in India. 

Lesser flamingoes are the smallest species of flamingo, standing at 80-90cm tall and weighing between 1.2 and 2.7 kg. Aside from size, the clearest difference between this species and the greater flamingo is the much more extensive black on the bill. 

Lesser Flamingoes feed primarily on algae which grows only in shallow saline lakes. Although blue-green in colour, the algae contains the photosynthetic pigments that give the birds their pink colour.

Flamingos have a distinctive downward-curved bill which filters food of various sizes using complex rows of hair-like structures called lamellae. The Lesser Flamingo has such a dense filter that it can sift out single-celled plants less than two-hundredths of an inch in diameter!

 

Munnar also known as the “Kashmir of South India” is a mountainous region in the Western Ghats of Kerala, South India. The area is famous for having some of the most elevated tea plantations in the world. The town of Munnar, located in the Idukki district of Kerala, is situated at around 1,600 metres (5,200 ft) above sea level.

Munnar is a popular tourist destination, famous for its picturesque setting and range of adventure activities such as camping, wildlife watching and mountain trekking.

Munnar is also perfect for escaping the unbearable Indian summers. High in the hills, the climate is considerably cooler than the surrounding low-lying regions.

Wildlife of Munnar:

The green hills of Munnar are home to a range of threatened and endemic species including the Bonnet macaque, Nilgiri Thar, the grizzled giant squirrel, the Nilgiri wood-pigeon, Indian elephant, gaur, the Nilgiri langur and the stunning neelakurinji flower  which blossoms only once every twelve years.

Bonnet Macaques can be found in evergreen high forests and dry deciduous forests throughout the Western Ghat Mountains. In the north, their natural range overlaps with the Rhesus macaque, with which these animals compete. They can be easily distinguished from the related rhesus macaques, by the a cap-like fur on their heads that points outward from the centre. 

Bonnet macaques are omnivorous, feeding on a wide variety of  foods including fruits, nuts, seeds, leaves, berries, flowers and foliage, supplementing this diet with bird eggs and various invertebrates. In areas where their territory is close to human settlements they rely heavily on food given by humans and regularly raid crops, temples and houses for food. This behaviour puts the macaques in serious conflict with humans and they are regularly killed or caught and sold into captivity.

Eravikulam National Park

Munnar’s most famous national park is the stunning Eravikulam national park. Due to its elevated position on the slopes of Anamudi peak (South Indias highest peak) the views from this national park are truly outstanding. The park features multitudes of impressive waterfalls, the largest population of the endangered Nilgiri Tahr and one of the most impressive neelakurinji blossoms. 

Anamudi is the the highest peak in south India, standing at an impressive height of 2695m. 

The Nilgiri Tahr, (Nilgiritragus hylocrius) is an endangered ungulate in the genus caprid. They are listed in Schedule I of the Wildlife protection Act 1972 and categorised as ‘endangered’ by the IUCN.

Nilgiri Tahrs are endemic to the hill ranges of the Western Ghats of India, found in suitable habitat of Montane Grasslands and rugged mountain terrain. It is estimated 800 Tahr inhabit Eravikulam National Park, making it the world’s largest wild population.

Sattal or Sat Tal, Hindi for ‘seven lakes’, is an interconnected group of seven freshwater lakes set amongst dense montane forests of oak and pine in the Nainital district of Uttarakhand, India. The area is part of the Lower Himalayan Range; formed as a result of tectonic activities between the Tibetan plain and the Indo-Gangetic plains. 

Sattal’s seven lakes sit at an altitude of 1370 metres above sea level and are one of the few unspoiled and relatively unpolluted freshwater biomes in India.

Nainital is also an important religious area and features many temples and shrines.

Golu Devta Temple, is a distinctive and well known temple in Ghorakhal. Ghorakhal translates to ‘pond for water to horses.’ At a height of more than 2,000 m above sea levels it commands stunning views over the valley below. 

The temple often features in news stories for the unique rituals performed there. Devotees come to the temple to ask for wishes from the presiding diety of the temple, said to be an incarnation of Lord Shiva. When their wish has been fulfilled the devotees show their gratitude through the hanging of bells or animal sacrifice. 

Birds of Sattal:

The lakes are a paradise for birdlife, supporting over 500 different species of local and migratory birds. The area is also internationally important for its diverse range of flora such as mosses, orchids, rare climbing plants, ferns, lichens, fungi, medicinal herbs and shrubs. 

The unique birdlife of Sattal includes many weird and wonderful species such as the red-billed blue magpie, the green magpie, five species of barbet, plum and slaty-headed parakeets, eighteen species of woodpecker, six species of kingfisher and much much more.

This ecologically fragile group of lakes are under threat from extensive deforestation, dumping of non-biodegradable waste, and uncontrolled urban development. This is increasingly resulting in reduced rainfall, a decrease in the number of plant and animal species and rapid drying up of springs. The lakes also now suffer from a reduced oxygen content and high levels of nitrogen and phosphorus.

Sattal still remains one of the most diverse birding habitats in India, but if nothing is done to slow the damage, for how much longer?

Contact me to organise your personalised Sattal trip

Gir National Park was first declared as a sanctuary in 1965 and now covers an area of 14, 012 km². The forest has impressive biodiversity and is home to 38 species of mammals, around 300 species of birds and 37 species of reptile. My primary focus here was the 600 odd Asiatic lions that inhabit the dry deciduous forest of Southern Gujarat.

Driving through the forest pre dawn is a surreal experience, the birds have not yet awoken and the forest is silent, still and cold. As we continue along the bumpy dirt track through the darkness we are on the alert for nocturnal predators as they roam the jungle, looking out for the glint of eyes caught in the piercing beam of the headlights. As colour starts to appear in the sky we are now deep in the jungle. Gradually the dawn chorus begins and the sun peeks over the horizon, no lions yet.

 

We listen intently for the alarm calls of grey langur and spotted deer, clues that give away the position of the secretive lions and leopards. Passing peacocks, nilgai, sambar, boar and a multitude of bird species. A few km along the trail we spot some forest guards on bikes, often a sign that a lion has been seen nearby. Sure enough they tell us of a resting male lion, tucked away in the vegetation. The driver picks up the pace and we speed along the track, excitement building by the moment. As we round the corner we spot a couple of jeeps pulled slightly off the track, this must be it!

Through the branches we can just see him, his tawny yellow skin perfectly camouflaged against the dry brown vegetation. We wait for the others to move and pull in to place so we can get a clear view through the vegetation and we’re so close! I can only fit his head and torso into the frame with my 500mm and he lifts his head to give us a cursory gaze before falling back to sleep. Lions, like most big carnivores, are primarily nocturnal animals and rarely move once they have settled down for the day. So we leave him to it and head back to the hotel.

As we head out for the afternoon the bright blue cloudless sky contrasts beautifully with the dry yellow grasslands and brown leaved teak trees. It’s hot. We pass a stark white ghost tree amongst the sea of brown and yellow and watch a group of langurs sitting between the tangled vine-like branches of an ancient banyan tree. After our luck in the morning I’m optimistic, and it’s not misplaced.

Not far along the trail we spot more guards by the roadside who point towards an impressive male sitting by the track. Completely unfazed he sits calmly, staring peacefully in our direction. Satisfied we continue along the route and pass another jeep full of happy looking tourists, who tell us of two more lions drinking from the river! Again we pick up the pace speeding along in a cloud of dust.

When we reach the area, the lions have sadly already settled back down but we have a clear view of them lying on a raised hillock. The guide tells us these are two young brothers who share a territory. Being the only jeep there we watched undisturbed taking in the experience. Four male lions and all on day one!

During the rest of the week we didn’t have a single bad safari and were treated to stunning up close views every day.

Aside from the lions, my favourite wildlife experience in Sasan Gir was an unexpected and highly unusual encounter with a striped hyena. During the week I had asked several guides about the possibility of spotting hyenas and was repeatedly told it was pretty much zero. Our guide for this morning had only seen a hyena twice in 15 years and only for the briefest of moments. After a quiet morning session and with the sun getting quite high in the sky we decided to call it a day and began chatting. Suddenly we rounded the corner and I spotted something in the middle of the track, a Hyena!

I expected him to quickly disappear, but to my surprise during this amazing encounter we were treated to an uninterrupted half an hour alone. We followed him for several km as he scent marked his territorial border pausing every so often to glance back at us. Hyenas are nocturnal predators so to watch one in full daylight for such a long time was an amazing experience. As I took this image a leopard hidden in the vegetation growled right next to us and the hyena moved on. Torn between which one to stay with we decided to stick with the hyena; as the old saying goes a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush!

About the Asiatic Lions of Gir National Park:

Gir National Park in Gujarat is the last remaining home of the Asiatic Lion (Panthera leo persica). Asiatic lions were once widespread across the Middle East and into India, inhabiting desert, semi-desert and dry forests throughout the region. By the mid 20th century the world population was estimated at less than 50 individuals living. Approx 600 lions now inhabit the dry deciduous forests of Gir National Park in Gujarat. Making it one of the world’s greatest ever conservation success stories.

Despite the impressive increase in population size, the lions are still under threat from disease and inbreeding due to the small localised population. Conflict with humans is also common as three busy roads and a railway track pass through the 14,000 km² Gir Protected Area. Also, there are three big temples inside the PA that attract large number of pilgrims, particularly during certain times of the year. Due to the massive increase in population more than 200 lions now live outside the protected area where there have been cases of lions dying by falling into the unguarded wells or attacked by farmers protecting livestock.

Asiatic lions are slightly smaller than their  African cousins. Full grown male lions weigh 160-190 kg, while lionesses weigh 110-120 kg. They have a lifespan of around 18 years for the lioness and 16 for the males. The most striking aesthetic difference between Asiatic and African lions, is the distinctive fold of skin running along their bellies. Another visible difference is that Asiatic males have less mane growth at the top of the head, meaning their ears are always visible.

Asiatic Lions reach sexual maturity at 4 years old but the mane doesn’t full grow until after 9 years, in contrast to African lions who grow a full mane at around 7 years old. Males control a territory of approx 30km, which they regularly patrol and use scent making and roaring to establish boundaries.

 

 

With the hot weather returning and my time in the field becoming more and more limited, I’ve now got time to catch up on some blog posts from my trips over the Winter months. The first post is about my intense but fantastic visit to the iconic Kaziranga National park in Assam to photograph some of the endemic and endangered species of this incredible biodiversity hotspot. 

About Kaziranga National Park:

Kaziranga National Park was first established in 1905 with the help of Mary Curzon, the wife of Viceroy Lord Curzon of Kedleston. As Vicereine of India, Mary held the highest official title in the Indian Empire that a woman could hold. It is said that when Mary visited the area to see rhinos she was unable to find even one and so persuaded her husband to take urgent measures to protect the vulnerable species. After the legislation was passed the Kaziranga Reserve Forest was created with an area of 232 km². In 1985 Kaziranga became a UNESCO world heritage and is now one of India’s most famous tourist destinations, located on the edge of the Himalayan biodiversity hotspot in the state of Assam. 

Now covering 430² km, Kaziranga is dominated by dense tropical forests, marshland and vast expanses of giant elephant grass, so called because they can grow tall enough to hide even the largest animals. The Brahmaputra river that winds it way through the flood plains is the lifeblood of the area and  gives the national park its amazing biodiversity.

Kaziranga is home to the world’s largest population of Greater one-horned rhinoceros. Over 2200 rhinos inhabit the elephant grass meadows and dense forests; approximately 2/3rd of total world population. The National Park is also home to many other endemic and endangered animals such as Hoolock Gibbons; India’s only ape, Indian Elephants, Sloth Bears, Wild water buffalo and swamp deer. An increase in the tiger population every year has also meant that Kaziranga was declared as a Tiger Reserve in the 2006 and it is now purported to have the highest density of tigers anywhere in the world.

Along with the wide range of mammal species the park is also recognised as an important area for birds. Rare birds such as the ferruginous duck, lesser white-fronted goose, Baer’s pochard, adjutant storks, black-necked storks, and Asian Openbill storks migrate here from the Central Asia during the winter.

Greater One Horned Rhinoceros:

The Greater one-horned rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis) also known as the Indian rhinoceros , and the great Indian rhinoceros, is a species of rhino native to the Indian subcontinent.

Rhinos were my main focus during the visit and they didn’t disappoint! Although the Rhinos spent much of their time hidden away deep in the Jungle, they came out onto the open grassy plains to feed offering some fantastic photographic opportunities.

The greater one-horned rhino is the largest of the rhino species, a title shared with the African White Rhinoceros. Indian rhinoceros’ were once widespread across much of the Indian sub-continent, but as the human population increased, the rhino population grew close to extinction after excessive hunting and conflict with local farmers. By the start of the 20th century, it was estimated that just 200 greater one-horned rhinos remained in the wild.

 

The incredible recovery of the greater one-horned rhino from the brink of extinction is one of the greatest conservation success stories in the world. Through strict protection from poaching and land management by wildlife authorities, the great Indian rhinoceros was brought back from the almost certain extinction. Today the population is estimated at 3,500 rhinos, found in northeastern India and the grasslands of Nepal, particularly in Kaziranga National Park and Chitwan.

These giants can be identified by their single horns, which can grow up to about 25 inches long, thought to be the origin of the unicorn legend. Their thick grey hide with deep skin folds, makes them look as though they are wearing a suit of armour.

Wild Water Buffalo:

Water buffalo (Bubalus arnee) are large herbivores in the family Bovidae. Also known as Asian buffalo, Asiatic buffalo and wild Asian buffalo, they are native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. Water buffalo have been listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List since 1986. The remaining wild population is estimated at around 3,400 individuals, of which 3,100 are found in India; primarily in Assam where Kaziranga National Park is a stronghold. The wild water buffalo is the ancestor of the domestic water buffalo, however it is much larger and heavier weighing 600 to 1,200 kg. Asiatic Buffalo are one of the heaviest living wild bovids, second only to the Gaur which is also found in India. 

 

 

 

Hog Deer:

Indian Hog deers (Axis porcinus) were once widespread and densely populated throughout their range. Between 1991 and 2012, hog deer in southeast Asia declined by over 90% thanks to habitat loss, hunting and changes in farming practices. The remaining isolated populations now only inhabit fractions of their former range, with one particular stronghold in Kaziranga National Park, India. Where they are estimated to number over 15,000. These small deer weigh 30-50kg and have a life span of between 10-20 years. Hog deer’s numbers are gradually decreasing in their natural range and they are now classified as Endangered on the IUCN Red List.

 

 

 

Great Hornbill:

The Great Hornbill (Buceros bicornis) also known as the Great Indian hornbill, the concave-casqued hornbill or the great pied hornbill, is one of the largest members of the hornbill family (Bucerotidae) found in Asia. In India Great Indian hornbills are found only in the Western ghats and the dense rainforests of the North East. Like many other hornbills, Great pied hornbills are predominantly frugivorous, but they will prey on small mammals, reptiles and even other birds.